The Canyon itself of First Creek holds the promise of becoming a worthwhile area. Here is what appears to be the tip of the iceberg, some problems that have been developed near the mouth of the Canyon. The boulders are described downstream to upstream.
30 Rock Boulder
This boulder is located in the wash, about 60' north of the First Creek Canyon Trail, 150 yards downstream of Lotta Balls (see page 123 and 126 for maps).
black: Dead Cat V5
Yellow: Rural Juror V6
Green: Urban Fervor V4
Purple: Urban Fervor Low V8
Red: Drunken Garbagecan V5
Atilla the Nun
This grey boulder sits about 60’ north of the First Creek Canyon Trail, about 150 yards downstream from Lotta Balls. The slopey arete (ORANGE LINE) faces up the wash embankment towards the trail.
RED: jump start undone
The jump start to slopey huecos on the wash side of the boulder has not been climbed.
BLUE: Atilla the Nun * V5
FA Andy Raether, Decemebr 2010
Sit start with crimps in a slanting rail, move up the right into a left facing rail which leads to another rail at the lip. Top out above. Crimpy.
GREEN: right start left finish V3
Stand start as for the following problem and move left into the finish of the previous problem.
YELLOW: Seven Car Pile Up * V4
FA Andy Raether, Decemebr 2010
Stand start with a right-facing sidepull at head height, climb up and right via slopers immediately left of the arête, top out above.
ORANGE: slopey arête undone
The slopey arête on the south side of the boulder has not been climbed.
Mr. Longarm
This boulder is located about 100’ upstream from the 30 Rock Boulder. It is visible from the First Creek Canyon Trail.
RED: Mr. Longarm V2/3
An attractive line with pleasing movement spoiled by sometimes sandy or suspect rock. Stand or jump start using a jug/crack feature on the arête which is followed up and right. Although highball this problem has a good gravel landing.
YELLOW: center undone
The center line with two obvious holds in the upper half of the face has not been climbed. It appears possible from a right and/or left start.
BLUE: Aggressive Cuts * V6
FA Tom Moulin, December 2010
Stand start with two micro-crimps above head height, climb the face and right arête above. Good movement.
Fake Philanthropy
This boulder is found in the wash directly below Lotta Balls. It faces southeast.
[vimeo]17627239[/vimeo]
RED: Faux Anonymity * V8
FA Andy Raether, December 2010
Sit or crouch start with a left hand rounded sloper-knob at the arête and a small right hand sidepull in the overhang. Climb right via the slopey rail into the following problem.
GREEN: Fake Philanthropy * V4
FA Andy Raether, December 2010
An attractive line with neat macro-features and some nice slopers. Sit or crouch start with a triangular sloper in the rail, climb up and left into the extruded prow, top out above.
BLUE: right face V3
Start as for the previous problem, climb up into the right facing dihedral with mantle-esqe moves, top out above.
